10 Pieces of Fashion with a Surprising Military History

There are fashions you wear every day that are so ordinary, so innocent and so simple, you would never think they all began from very violent military origins.

Khakis

Khaki is a color but it's used so frequently in pants, the word "khaki" alone is enough to describe a pair of paints in a nondescript, light brown sort of color that has become the uniform of customer service representatives around the world. It's a color that has been used to make everything including pants, from home furnishings to curtains. You can even get khaki car paint.

Today, khaki is associated with the most benign fashion and decor. It's downright boring, vanilla, run-of-the-mill. And yet, this color has a rather violent past.

The year was 1846 and the British military had been occupying India for about 70 decades. The British, being British, wore heavy wool uniforms in bright red, the same kind of stuff they were wearing when they fought the colonists in America in the 1770s.

And frankly, the uniforms were heavy and bright and ridiculous.

Indian soldiers didn't wear heavy wool. They wore lightweight cotton that they smeared with local mud and sometimes tea. This created a light brownish color shade. It was noticed by Henry Lumsden, who was leading the Corps of Guides for Her Majesty the Queen.

Lightweight khaki-colored garments were adapted by the British and by 1848, official uniforms were issued. The color spread from there and became synonymous with lightweight cotton pants. The word khaki comes from Hindustani for "soil-colored."

Bermuda shorts

Before 1914, men didn't really wear shorts. Like, at all. Shorts were for children, maybe athletes sometimes. Men wore pants. At least, they did.

But sometimes, it's just not practical. Like in the year 1914 in Bermuda. The world was at war and there were British soldiers stationed on the island. And what do British soldiers like to drink? That's right: tea.

Coxon's Tea Room was hot and crowded thanks to the new rush of clients. The servers were having trouble maintaining energy in the stuffy space. So Nathaniel Coxon came up with an idea: put them in shorts. He envisioned somewhat long shorts made in a lightweight material that would be cool and comfortable to wear, breezy and easy in the hot tea room.

Admiral Berridge of His Majesty's navy was taking his tea at Coxon's when he noticed the effect the short pants had on the servers. He decided to put his men in Bermuda shorts, too, and soon most of the British military stationed on the island had on short pants. When vacationers to the island noticed the shorts, they embraced them and took them back to England and America. Soon, Bermuda shorts caught on everywhere.

Plaid

Plaid is heavily associated with Scottish history but the pattern has a long military history, too. Used in Scotland from at least the 1700s to identify particular family and clan affiliations based on color and pattern, plaid became military wear in 1745. This is when the Royal Highland Regiment wore the now-famous Black Watch pattern. It had no clan affiliation and it became the look of the Scottish rebellion.

It wasn't a symbol for long. The Scottish were defeated in 1746 and the British created the Dress Act, which banned tartans outside of military wear. Plaid and tartan became associated with the military but also a symbol of Scottish heritage. When it make its way to the U.S. near the turn of the century, it became a popular fashion staple.

Cardigan

The cardigan is associated with learned professors, with soft and comfortable warmth, with all things non-threatening. This makes it extra ironic that this piece of fashion is associated with one of the worst military disasters of all time.

The cardigan came to fame during the Crimean War and would become immortalized in the Charge of the Light Brigade in 1854. James Thomas Brudenell wasn't much of a military strategist. But he was quite the natty dresser, apparently. Brudenell, an officer in Her Majesty's army, dressed his men and himself in a striking trimmed waistcoat made out of wool.

Brudenell was the 7th Earl of Cardigan and he became linked with the ill-fated charge, during which he led his troops to their certain doom with far more arrogance than the situation warranted. But his name became linked, too, with the fancy wool waistcoats that became popular after this military disaster.

The cardigan changed over the years and finally took on its final form, but its origin story is one of bloodshed and battle and mistakes.

T-shirt

Everyone owns a T-shirt, everyone has a favorite T-shirt, everyone knows this is this is a go-to casual garment you can wear any time, all the time. But there was a day before the T-shirt ever existed. And because the T-shirt exists now, you can thank the British navy.

Wearing a rather loose-fitting cotton or linen shirt under clothing was something men did dating back to the medieval era. But it wasn't until new knitting methods were invented that the shirts became more form-fitting, more refined, more like the modern T-shirt.

In the late 1800s, British sailors were commonly wearing white flannel undershirts beneath their wool uniforms. The British Royal Navy allowed them to wear just these undershirts while on the deck. In the 1880s, the U.S. Navy included similar loose flannel shirts as part of their standard uniform. They were known as "lightweight short-sleeve white cotton undervests."

In 1913, Cooper Underwear Company changed the game. They began producing "bachelor undershirts," which had the more modern shape and design of today's T-shirts. It wasn't until 1920 that the word "t-shirt" became a thing and now, it’s one of the most worn piece of fashion in the world.

Blazer

The HMS Blazer takes credit for being the namesake and birthplace of the blazer, which some say was first worn by the crew of the frigate in 1837. The crew was part of Her Majesty's Royal Navy and when Queen Victoria herself visited them, they wanted to look their best. They wore double-breasted jackets with gold buttons to impress her and look quite polished.

Others say that the blazer was actually worn first by Oxford and Cambridge students while rowing. Either way, the blazer did become popular with students and with many, many other people during the mid-1800s.

Wristwatches

Before the 1900s, only women wore wristwatches. It didn't much matter if they worked, either, as wristwatches were more about being fashionable than about keeping the time. All men wore pocket watches, if they had watches at all.

Pocket watches were supremely inconvenient during the first World War. Men in the trenches found that checking the time was a deadly practice. It became the fashion to attach pocket watches to the wrist to make things easier.

In 1917, Cartier designed the now-iconic Tank watch. Soon, trench watches caught on with soldiers and in a few years, wristwatches were a fashion standard among both genders.

Belt

The belt is probably one of the oldest pieces of fashion ever invented. People in the Stone Age wore wraps and pelts that were cinched around their bodies with cords. Ancient Greeks and Romans used belt-like cords to keep their tunics closed. Roman fashion would have looked quite different otherwise.

But belts in a more modern form first appeared on the knights of the medial era. They wore elaborate great belts with buckles that held swords and other items. These belts were thicker, heavier, more substantial than the simple cord belts of the past. The buckle closure on this version of the belt closely resembles the modern buckle that's in use today.

Beanie

Knit caps that keep the head warm date back to ancient times. They were worn by soldiers in the 1830s during the Lower Canada Rebellion, waged between French Canadian patriots and British colonial authorities.

But the modern snug-fitting beanie first appeared as watch caps that were born by Navy soldiers during WWII. When civilians started wearing beanies, bright colors and patterns became a regular part of the design.

Scarves

Scarves are highly practical garments that keep you warm, so it makes sense that they are thousands of years old. But historical evidence suggests that scarves began as a military garment. They were used to identify military ranks. Ancient Chinese warriors used them and men fighting in the trenches in WWI wore them. Scarves have a long, long military history.

The bright scarves worn by Croatian mercenaries during the Thirty Year War, which lasted from 1618 to 1648, caught the eye of fashion-forward French people. They called the neckwear la croate or la cravate, and started wearing it fashionably. This thin, short scarf was the grandfather of the modern necktie.


Sources:

BBC - The T-shirt: A rebel with a cause
https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20180202-t-shirts-the-worlds-most-expressive-garment

Country & Town House - The Very British History of the Blazer
https://www.countryandtownhouse.com/style/british-history-blazers/

The Dreamstress - Terminology: the history of the cardigan
https://thedreamstress.com/2016/04/terminology-the-history-of-the-cardigan/

Encyclopedia Brittanica - girdle
https://www.britannica.com/topic/girdle-clothing#ref1247397

Gentleman's Gazette - Why Did Men Start Wearing Belts?
https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/men-start-wearing-belts/

Heddels - The History of Khaki: Anything But Drab
https://www.heddels.com/2019/05/history-khaki-anything-drab/

Heddels - History of the Watch Cap – From Monmouth to The Monkees
https://www.heddels.com/2017/12/history-of-the-watch-cap-2/

Jetset Times - The Fascinating History Of Bermuda Shorts
https://jetsettimes.com/countries/bermuda/the-fascinating-history-of-bermuda-shorts/

Real Men Real Style - 11 Style Items With A Military Heritage
https://www.realmenrealstyle.com/style-items-with-military-origin/

Stitch Fix - The History of Plaid
https://www.stitchfix.com/men/blog/features/the-history-of-plaid/

The New York Times - Wrist Watches: From Battlefield to Fashion Accessory
https://www.nytimes.com/2013/10/23/fashion/wrist-watches-from-battlefield-to-fashion-accessory.html

Vogue - Everything to know about the history of the blazer
https://www.vogue.com.au/fashion/trends/everything-to-know-about-the-history-of-the-blazer/image-gallery/dd07db6a3e45b3cbaff5851eb1b20398

Fiction Fashion Icon: Anne

Anne Shirley was bookish, talkative, orphaned, accident-prone...and my hero. I loved her story when I was younger, and the one thing I always associated with Anne was her red hair. Fashion is total -- it's not just about the clothes. But Anne had some very specific ideas about that, too, and that meant that I had to as well. 

Pigtails and Puffed Sleeves

Anne Shirley was first introduced in 1908 by Lucy Maud Montgomery in Anne of Green Gables, the beginning of what would become an extraordinarily successful YA series. She hated her red hair, and I've always wanted it badly (I'm blonde instead, and even that's debatable). So much so, in fact, that I dyed mine red for half of high school. Well, I tried. Turns out, blonde doesn't hold red dye all that well. The point is, Anne's been a personal style icon of mine for a long time. She didn't think her red hair was very fashionable, but she was certain about one must-have detail: puffed sleeves.

The dress scene in the film version of Green Gables is a big deal, and that's because in the book the scene is so very special. Matthew gets to thinking about Anne's clothing and in particular her sleeves, after she makes a big deal about wishing to have a dress with puffed sleeves. So Matthew boldly goes to visit nosy Mrs. Lynde for help, and soon enough Anne has a dress with the puffiest sleeves in all the world. On film it's blue and fantastic, and Anne wears a blue bow to match.

Anne's style is pretty simple, with a few embellishments. Later in life, she wears a pearl engagement ring because she's never cared for diamonds, and an imitation pearl necklace that one of her sons thought was the real thing when he bought it for her. She grows accustomed to her red hair, avoids pinks and yellows at all costs, and adds a statement piece to her outfit every now and then. Anne might add flowers to her hat or put a stunning necklace on display, but the most important thing about her style is its versatility. She may start the day at a school picnic and end it in the dark, dreary woods -- so footwear choices are especially important. Anne's not above trying to improve upon her lot in life. She even dyes her hair in one very memorable scene in the book, only the color doesn't turn out quite as planned (we've all been there).

What would Anne wear if she were a modern girl in today's world? Check out this post from The Gloss to see an Anne-inspired high fashion look.

Fiction Fashion Icon: Scarlett

Gone With the Wind was published 70 years after the Civil War ended, and introduced countless new generations to this bloody conflict in the United states. It was written in 1936 and became the biggest film ever made just three short years later. And even though it was written about a woman who lived way, way back in the 1860s, it helped to shape 1940s fashion and created one of the most famous fiction style icons of all time: Scarlett O'Hara. 

Belle in a Bell Skirt

Long-time readers of the blog know that Gone With the Wind is my favorite book and my favorite film, and if you've read and seen it then you probably know why. Many, many people cite the novel and the film as their favorites, and many women admire the central heroine (or anti-heroine, depending on your view): Scarlett O'Hara. 

Fashion plays a big part in the book. It's about living through a war, which is no easy time. In the south during the 1860s, it was particularly rough. There are many passages describing Scarlett's attire. She goes from wearing sprigged muslin and gowns with carefully-sewn pearls adorning them to being without a proper bonnet or even a petticoat under her dress. She lives without stockings and hoops and all those many mysterious items that were so essential in those days when skirts had to be several feet wide and brush the floor or you just weren't decent. 

But the fashion of the book didn't come alive until it hit the silver screen in full, glorious Technicolor. Vivien Leigh, playing Scarlett, was bedecked with yards of fabric, acres of jewelry and a wire hoop cage that was (blessedly) much lighter than the real deal would have been back in the day. And though she was already an aged heroine by contemporary 1940s film-goers, Scarlett's fashion leapt from the screen and into the closets of women all over America. 

After it was brought to the big screen in 1939, Gone With the Wind immediately became the most popular film of the day and of all time. It is still the highest-grossing movie ever made, if you factor in ticket price differences between then and now. Clothiers of all types took notice. 

The most popular pattern of the early 1940s mirrored the green and white dress Scarlett wears to the barbeque at Twelve Oaks. Many women also flocked to the dress shop to get a pattern for a white, ruffled gown with the long skirt, an item that mirrored the red-belted dress Scarlett wears in the opening scene of the flick. And the slim, cut silk wedding gowns of the 30s quickly fell out of favor as brides rushed to wear dresses made with puffy sleeves and organza fabric, more like the gown Scarlett wore when she married Charles Hamilton. Organza is still a popular wedding fabric today, though puffy sleeves are a bit less common.

Hats were everywhere in the summer of 1940. Big-brimmed styles were all the rage because of Scarlett's big hats, and some designers even created bonnet-like headpieces resembling some of the more casual headwear shown in the film. Women also rushed out to buy themselves hair netting and fabric bags, and began fashioning their locks with snoods like those worn by Scarlett.

Scarlett's fashion helped inspire women everywhere, and her story continues to delight book readers and movie watchers to this day. Her strong, fearless character has drawn the admiration of many, and that's why so many have tried to copy her style. So the next time you feel like ripping down the curtains to make a new dress, go with it. That's what Scarlett would want.

Fiction Fashion Icon: Holly Golightly

Holly Golightly first appeared in the world of fiction in 1958, but her character lived on the page in the 1940s. By the time she debuted on film, she'd aged 10 years and moved into the early sixties. But no matter where you find her, she's always one thing: incredibly stylish. 

The Little Girl in the Little Black Dress

In any era, Holly Golightly's style transcends the page. She was introduced in a novella written by Truman Capote, ostensibly based on someone he actually knew when he moved to New York as a young writer. Holly's love of style and fashion are revealed early in the book when she talks about going to Tiffany's, the famous jewelry store, and how safe she feels when surrounded by the men in their dark suits. Holly is a party girl who loves the night life, and she's usually dressed for it even at seemingly inappropriate hours of the day. The story struck a chord with readers, and Holly became a well-loved fiction heroine (or anti-heroine, depending on your point of view) quickly. But it wasn't until she was transferred to the big screen that she became a true fashion icon.

And so did Audrey Hepburn, who played Holly for the film version of Breakfast at Tiffany's. The 1961 movie cemented Audrey as a true film fashion icon, and made the little black dress the must-have garment for every single woman in America. The costumers who designed the movie did a great job of re-capturing Holly's look, as told by Truman Capote's narrator in the book.

But even Audrey thought of herself as a bit of a mis-cast in the role. She was thin and willowy like Holly, but the similarities ended there. In the book, Holly has messy blonde hair and she's rather unapologetically a high-class call girl for New York society's cafe set. Capote famously wanted Marilyn Monroe in the part, but she didn't want it and the producers didn't want her for it. In that ultra-conservative time of making movies, when the famous Code was in full effect, it was extremely important to downplay Holly Golightly's sexual nature and various escapades. Hepburn, who was the epitome of classy elegance, was strongly courted for the role and personally persuaded by the director to accept the part. 

When Holly Golightly first appeared onscreen wearing her trademark dark glasses and a long, black cocktail dress, fashion history was made. In the story, Holly is known for wearing her sunglasses and stylish, thin black dresses that are perfect for late evening hours. Whenever she's feeling down, Holly goes to gaze at the glittering, ultra-expensive pieces on display at Tiffany's. She doesn't own a whole lot of real jewelry herself, but she does hope to marry a millionaire one day so she won't ever have to worry about money. 

Holly's fashion plays a big role in the story, and it became the focal point of the film. For her role in shaping the little black dress as the must-have style garment, and for showing us how to wear dark sunglasses while window-shopping for jewelry, Holly Golightly is one of the most famous and best-loved fiction fashion icons.

Fiction Fashion Icon: Cathy

It is the job of all authors to bring their characters to life. Most well-loved characters have a distinct look, noticeable characteristics, great flaws and strengths. Some authors even take things one step further, and create a distinct style for their leading ladies. To honor some of the great fiction fashion icons that I've read over the years, I'm introducing a new feature with one of my most favorite characters: Cathy Dollanganger.

Fashionable Femme Fatale 

Cathy Dollanganger is the main protagonist of the Dollanganger series, which spanned five books. The series was introduced in a debut novel from V.C. Andrews, Flowers in the Attic. It became an instant hit, though the movie didn't fare quite so well, and launched a career that has, phenomenonally, continued with new novels even beyond the author's death.  

It all began with Cathy. Through the series, she goes from age 9 to age 59 (or thereabouts), and that's a whole lot of clothes. For some special scenes, readers are treated to Cathy's outfits in exquisite detail. In fact, clothes are used to illustrate a lot of the turmoil she feels in the first book of the series. 

While Cathy is locked away in Flowers in the Attic, clothes are given to her by her mother Corrine, the woman who did the locking up. They're a compensation of sorts for the miserable life Cathy and her sister and brothers are now being forced to lead. In one memorable scene, Corrine gives Cathy beautiful ballet costumes so she can continue to live her dream of one day becoming a prima ballerina. The clothing is so beautiful, and represents so much, it fills Cathy's heart with love.

Later, clothes fill her heart with anger. After an extended trip away from her children, Corrine returns with tons of gifts...and more pretty fashions for Cathy. But as she tries them on, Cathy realizes that her mother is still buying clothing for a little girl -- a little girl she no longer is. The clothes represent all the neglect, and the blind eye Corrine is using to view the situation she's trapped her children inside. Cathy hates those clothes! She rips them off, tears them up and cries bitterly. 

Fashion...it's such a fantastic plot device. Clothing continues to be important in Cathy's life. She goes on a shopping spree in the next book of the series, Petals on the Wind, and the new items represent a freedom of choice she has never before enjoyed as a young woman. 

When Cathy is an adult, later in the book, fashion becomes her greatest weapon. By now, many years separate Cathy from her attic days of captivity, but the bitterness and anger has taken root in her and blossomed into full-blown revenge. It's not enough that she's free. It's not enough that she's achieved her dreams. It's not enough until her mother Corrine suffers. Isn't fashion a great way to make that happen? 

When Cathy decides to take her mother's husband, she invites him to dinner and dons a sexy red dress. The details of Cathy's seduction outfit are carefully revealed, and it's fair to say that she doesn't get the reaction from Bart that she wanted. He gets the wrong message from the red dress, and the entire plan pretty much falls apart. 

For the most climactic scene of Petals on the Wind, the huge confrontation for which readers waded through hundreds of pages to get to, Cathy plans her outfit much, much more carefully. For the ending scenes of the book, Cathy dons an outfit so important and so well-described, it cements her as one of my favorite fiction fashion icons. 

The green dress Cathy wears the night Foxworth Hall burns down was first seen years and years before, in Flowers in the Attic. The Christmas Party represents one of the only times during their attic imprisonment that Cathy gets to leave the little room in the big mansion, and the green dress is a fundamental part of the imagery of the party. It's worth by the ever-beautiful Corrine, Cathy's mother, as she dances and flirts with her soon-to-be-husband Bart. The green dress is a combination of velvet and chiffon, and it represents everything Cathy hopes to be when she grows up. 

Years later, the green dress becomes her symbol of revenge. She has it re-made in exquisite detail and copies the hairstyle her mother originally donned when it was worn so many years before in Cathy's childhood. She even sneaks into the mansion to steal the same emerald jewelry that Corrine paired with the dress the first time. In this grand fashion, Cathy makes her re-entrance into her mother's life. 

Revenge fashion is delicious when it's described by V.C. Andrews. The dress continues to be present through all the final scenes of Petals on the Wind, which ends in stunning fashion, and it left a huge impression on me the first time I read it. Every time I see green velvet paired with green chiffon, I think of Cathy Dollanganger, revenge, and blazing fire. It's a lot of powerful images, and it's all held together by some of the best fiction fashion you'll find in any book.

Winning Look

The Deck of Lies Diva Challenge is over, and a winning outfit for Rain has been picked!

Diva crystalstone32 designed this stylish number to win herself a free copy of Justice (Deck of Lies, #1). Thanks to everyone who played the Diva Challenge at Fashion Fantasy Game. All of the outfits looked great. 

For everyone who didn't win the giveaway, you still have a chance to grab a free copy of the book. Look to the left of the blog to find a link to a new giveaway, and sign up for your chance to win!

Deck of Lies Diva Challenge Now Open

The Deck of Lies Diva Challenge is now open! 

Use the button on the right to sign into Fashion Fantasy Game with your Facebook account and start designing an outfit for Rain. You'll get a chance to win a copy of the first book in the series when you play!

Dressing the Deck of Lies

Justice (Deck of Lies, #1) is being featured next week, and you'll never guess where. The book is coming to Fashion Fantasy Game to give readers the chance to dress Rain, the main character in the Deck of Lies series.

I've blogged about Rain's style in the past, and Deck of Lies readers know that fashion plays a strong part in the series. If you keep reading the series, you'll find that Rain's fashion choices often reflect how she's feeling about herself and her life.

But maybe you can do a little better than me at dressing her up. Visit the Facebook page for Fashion Fantasy Game to find out when the competition begins. When it does, you'll have a chance to win my giveaway -- and to blow me away with your amazing fashion sense. Now, go have fun!

My Other Job is Fashion Writer

If you've read any books in the Deck of Lies series, you've probably noticed that I'm into fashion. I label-drop constantly, and I've tried to create a distinct style for Rain and many of her supporting characters (I've even blogged about those styles). But I don't get to write about fashion in my books as much as I'd like, so I've started writing for VAR magazine to get my fashion fix. 

I write about vintage fashions and current vintage trends in Issue 1 of VAR, which was just released this month. VAR is packed with fashion-centric photos and articles. It's based in New York, and even though I'm not I'll be contributing articles on a freelance basis to the magazine from time to time (when I'm not writing about murder plots and family intrigue). You have to buy the issue to see it all, but various snippets and articles will be available on the VAR site soon. Issue 1 features Alysha Nett, Bai Ling, Bernadette Macias, Dave Navarro, Davey Havok, Jenny Mollen, Miles Devin, Olga Maliouk and me! ...Plus many other very talented writers, photographers and personalities, of course.

Fashion in Silverwood: Rain

Rain prefers to dress in bold colors and tends toward slim silhouettes -- it's why she loves Calvin Klein dresses, like the two in the collage. She usually chooses shoes with a solid-looking heel like these red Steve Maddens. And when it comes to carrying stuff, she's got a lot; it's why she favors big purses, like this Barbara Milano.

Fashion in Silverwood: Carsyn

Carsyn favors minidresses with wide skirts, like the Betsey Johnson frocks in the collage above. She tends toward very high, very embellished heels like these Louboutins. A Marc Jacobs handbag, like the one pictured, completes many of her ensembles. Real vs. Steal has great deals on high fashion and faux fashion if you want to get Carsyn's look. Share your pictures of Carsyn-esque fashion below!